It seems as though everywhere we look in Italy these days, we hear about a wine renaissance, whether that means a return to traditional winemaking techniques, a re-discovery of native grape varieties, or a forgotten style of wine becoming popular again. In some instances it is all of the above. Nowhere is this more accurate than in the southern half of the country. In regions such as Campania and Puglia, whose wine industries experienced rapid decline in the post-WWII years, a new generation of winemakers have been working overtime to produce quality, terroir-driven wines. This month, we will look at two such regions: Sicily, whose volcanic red wines have gained a cult following around the world, and Molise, whose small size and relative isolation have done nothing to curb the ambitions of some truly excellent wineries.
Download Full Club Write-up2022 Di Majo Norante Cabernet Sauvignon
Located between the Apennine Mountains and the Adriatic coast, Molise boasts an impressive combination of calcium-rich soils, elevation, and a year-long moderate climate moderated by the Adriatic Sea. Despite all of this it remains one of Italy’s smallest and least understood growing regions, with a common inside joke being that many Italians do not even believe Molise exists. However, a recent wave of quality winemaking is putting the region on the map for many consumers, spearheaded by producers who focus on quality and sustainability.
One such producer is Di Majo Norante, located among the mountain valleys that make up the Biferno DOC. Though evidence of winemaking on the property dates back to the pre-Roman era, the modern history of the winery begins in 1968, shortly after Molise was recognized as an independent region of Italy. Prior to the mid-1960s, it had been considered part of neighboring Abruzzo. Out of both practicality and regional pride, the Di Majo family re-planted their old farm to a number of native grape varieties, including the rare Tintilia, as well as southern Italian staples such as Greco and Aglianico. Today, the property consists of three vineyard sites which together make up over 200 acres of planted vines. In addition, the family is incorporating sustainable and biodynamic practices across their property with a focus on renewable agriculture, in order to keep the soil healthy for future generations.
Given their emphasis on native grape varieties, it may seem surprising to find a varietal Cabernet Sauvignon among the winery’s offerings. However, this wine showcases the same emphasis on terroir as the rest of the Di Majo Norante line. The family’s Sciabolone vineyard contains some older vines of Cabernet Sauvignon, planted in the 1970s when many southern Italian wineries were experimenting with the variety. Riccardo Cotarella, their winemaking consultant, believes that the terroir of Molise is ideal for producing Cabernet Sauvignon due to its heavy sun exposure and elevation.
All fruit used in this wine comes from Tenuta Ramitello, the family’s original winery, whose vineyards produce the bulk of the estate’s red wines. The orientation of the vines in this particular site maximizes their exposure to the Adriatic Sea breeze, creating a favorable micro-climate for many red varieties. In the winery, the fruit sees a gentle extraction and a shorter than average skin maceration, which helps to preserve the natural acidity and balance of Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine spends 6 months in gently used French oak before bottling.
When you open this wine, you will want to decant for up to half an hour. In addition, this wine benefits from being served closer to cellar temperature, around 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Once this wine has some time to open up it delivers notes of dried red cherry, red plum, kirsch, balsamic vinegar, and earth. Drink 2025-2028 with pasta alla norma, grilled chicken sausages, or homemade bruschetta.
2022 Terrazze dell’Etna “Carusu” Etna Rosso
Though the wines of mainland Italy’s southern regions such as Calabria and Molise are still new to many consumers, Sicily is another story entirely. As with our previous feature, an emphasis on native varieties, sustainable viticulture, and unique winemaking practices have helped the winemakers of Sicily re-assert their regional identity. In addition, the Etna DOC has an advantage in that its red wines, lighter in body and terroir-driven, have often been compared to the eternally popular reds of Burgundy. Many winemakers are rebuilding the mountain’s old, terraced vineyards, offering a look into the glory days of Sicilian wine through a modern lens.
One such winery is Terrazze dell’Etna, founded in 2008 as a partnership between Riccardo Cotarella and Nino Bevilacqua, an engineer from Palermo and long-time admirer of traditional Etna wines. At nearly 3,000 feet above sea level, this winery is planted not only to native grape varieties but to olives, chestnut, and cherry trees, which all serve to improve soil health and biodiversity in the vineyard. Though a few international varieties are used in the estate’s sparkling wines, the bulk of production is given over to the Nerello family of red varieties, and this month’s feature is a blend of the ubiquitous, Pinot Noir-like Nerello Mascalese and its sister grape, Nerello Cappuccio.
All fruit in this wine comes from the estate’s northwest-facing vineyards, where the ample sunshine is tempered by Mediterranean breezes and the altitude of the terraces. Due to the high-density planting of the vineyards yields are naturally low, only about 2 pounds of fruit per bush vine. The narrow terraces and altitude make mechanization impossible, so all fruit must be harvested by hand. In the winery, fermentation takes place in stainless steel with an extended time on the skins, about 40 days. The finished wine sees 6 months in neutral oak barrel and a year of bottle age before release.
When you open this wine, we strongly suggest decanting for at least half an hour. In addition, you will want to serve this wine cellar temperature or just below, between 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Once this wine has some time to open up it is very expressive of its terroir with notes of ripe red cherry, wild raspberry, earth, and dried tobacco. Drink 2025-2029 with grilled chicken kebabs, beef arancini, or rigatoni with basil and burrata.
Roasted White Bean and Tomato Pasta
I found this recipe on the New York Times cooking website a few months ago and made it on a chilly Sunday night serving it with a lovely Etna Rosso from my cellar. The flavors are reminiscent of Pasta e Fagioli soup but the consistency is not brothy. This is a versatile recipe that works with what you have on hand and I found that canned beans work just as well as dried and makes this a quick weeknight dish. Use any pasta shape you have but those that cup the sauce work best. Serve with either wine this month
Ingredients
Salt and black pepper
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, finely minced
2 tablespoons tomato paste
5 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
½ teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary ½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes
½ teaspoon granulated sugar
16 ounces cherry tomatoes, halved
1 (15-ounce) can small white beans (preferably navy or cannellini beans), rinsed (or 1⅓ cups cooked white beans)
1 pound orecchiette (or other shaped pasta that will cup or grasp the sauce)
Freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino for serving
Preparation
Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high.
In a small bowl, stir together ¼ cup olive oil with the shallot, tomato paste, garlic, rosemary, red-pepper flakes and sugar. On a large baking sheet, toss the tomatoes with the dressing; season generously with salt and pepper, then spread in an even layer.
On a second baking sheet, toss the beans with 2 tablespoons olive oil; season generously with salt and pepper. Roast the tomatoes and beans, stirring halfway through, until tomatoes slump and beans crisp, about 25 minutes.
While the tomatoes and beans roast, cook the pasta until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta cooking water then drain pasta.
Transfer the beans and tomatoes to the pot. Add ¼ cup pasta cooking water to the sheet pan from the tomatoes and use a flexible spatula to scrape the browned bits from the bottom of the sheet pan; transfer to the pot, then repeat with another ¼ cup pasta cooking water.
Add the pasta and the remaining ½ cup olive oil to the pot; stir vigorously until saucy. Season generously with salt and pepper, then add extra pasta water as needed to moisten until glossy. Divide among wide, shallow bowls, top with grated cheese.