Cabernet Franc, one of France’s oldest and most beloved grape varieties, has been enjoying its moment in the sun after being overshadowed by its offspring, Cabernet Sauvignon. There are several factors at play here, including the variety’s natural expression of terroir, the monolithic nature of many high-profile Cabernet Sauvignon producing regions, and a global shift towards lighter-bodied, chillable reds. Unfortunately, this comes at a time where climate change is beginning to make this variety harder to cultivate. Our features this month prove, however, that in the hands of talented winemakers with respect for the environment, today’s wines made from Cabernet Franc more than live up to the historic hype.
Download Full Club Write-up2024 Red Tail Ridge Dry Rosé
When winery owner Nancy Irelan showed up in our Orlando store in May, she offered us a look into some of the most exciting domestic wines any of us had tasted in years, all from her estate vineyard holdings at Red Tail Ridge. Nancy and her partner Michael Schnelle already had an extensive background in the world of wine, serving as VP of Gallo’s Viticulture and Enology R&D department while Michael and his company leased equipment to a number of West Coast vineyards. When the opportunity came to scout locations for a winery project in the Finger Lakes, the two needed little convincing, and headed for upstate New York in 2002, purchasing the property that would become their first vineyard two years later.
The decision to plant on this site came after extensive surveying, but ultimately Nancy found the shale and alluvial soils, formed back when the Finger Lakes were covered by glaciers, were well suited to the styles of wine she and Michael wanted to make. After selecting a site, the choice was made to plant the Red Tail Ridge vineyard to cooler-climate varieties including Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Alpine varieties such as Teroldego and Lagrein. Traditionally made, yet produced in a brand-new vineyard, these are wines that truly speak to the terroir and viticultural potential of the Finger Lakes.
This rosé is grown in a hillside vineyard block known as Earl’s Place, where the alluvial clay soils are flecked with silt. Though Cabernet Franc always makes up a significant part of their rosé, this vintage is predominantly Zweigelt, an early-ripening Austrian red variety which contributes body and color. This wine is a good look at how Cabernet Franc plays well with others! Both varieties are harvested and pressed separately before fermenting in stainless steel. After 3 months on the fine lees, the two varieties are blended and lightly filtered before bottling. Only 600 cases are produced annually.
When you open this wine, you will want to serve it chilled, but not ice cold, around 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Simply pulling it out of your refrigerator 15 minutes before serving should do the trick and allow the wine to show its full aromatic range. Once it reaches cellar temperature this wine delivers notes of wild raspberry, redcurrant, hibiscus, tart cranberry relish, and blood orange peel. Drink 2025-2027 with pasta salad with cucumber and fresh tomato, grilled chicken skewers, or smoked fish such as trout or salmon.
2024 Château de Fontenille “La Coucoute” Cabernet Franc
Château de Fontenille sits in the middle of the Entre-Deux-Mers appellation in Bordeaux. Literally translated as “between two seas,” this appellation represents the fertile stretch of farmland that separates the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. The Entre-Deux-Mers has historically been known for its relatively cool climate and its white wines, and in fact the white wine from Château Fontenille is one of our best-selling Bordeaux, period. However, in recent years, climate change and consumer trends have led many producers in the region to experiment with new varieties and winemaking styles, including owner and winemaker Stéphane Defraine.
The past few decades have seen warmer than average temperatures throughout Bordeaux, and the central location of the Entre-Deux-Mers means that this region has felt the effects of climate change acutely. Though the increased heat has made it easier for red grapes to ripen effectively, it comes with its own set of challenges, and as global demand for Bordeaux decreases it can be difficult to turn a profit making wine at a smaller winery such as Fontenille. Fortunately, Stéphane has a few tricks up his sleeve, and the Coucoute (“Cuckoo’s Nest”) line of wines aims to challenge consumer preconceptions about Bordeaux. His daughter Macha heads up the project, producing rarities such as an ancestral method sparkling, a series of red and white co-fermentations, and this fantastic minimal-intervention Cabernet Franc.
Though the region’s humidity may not agree with Cabernet Franc, at least on paper, the fruit for this wine comes from the Defraine family’s riverside vineyards, where the gravel and limestone soils work in its best interest. Critically, these vineyards are well-draining and sunny, which helps keep the easily waterlogged Cabernet Franc vines healthy and free from mildew. This wine is harvested by hand and fermented with only a brief maceration on the skins, in order to create a fresher, more chill-worthy take on the category. To that end, the finished wine sees no oak maturation, and is bottled with no added sulfur. While these talking points may seem endemic to the “natural wine” movement, both father and daughter are quick to point out that traditional French wine has been made this way for millennia! By using these age-old techniques they are able to create an archetypal Cabernet Franc, the same sort of light red wine that was popularized in Bordeaux nearly 4 centuries ago.
When you open this wine, you will want to serve it reasonably chilled, around 50 degrees similar to the rosé detailed above. Also, this wine has no sulfur added so it is slightly reductive. Make sure to splash in to a decanter for at least 15 minutes to open it up. Once you do it delivers notes of tart red cherry, wild raspberry, blueberry, violets, and forest floor. Drink 2025-2028 with brie and toast, salad with fresh cheese and tomatoes, or your favorite chips!
Pasta with Artichokes and Lemon
Several years ago I found a version of this recipe on the New York Times cooking section and it was an immediate family favorite. Over the years I have adapted to make it my own and we actually served it with the La Coucoute when I was testing that wine for a club feature. The pairing is magical and it also works very nicely with the Red Tail Rose.
Ingredients
1 pound frozen halved artichoke hearts (thawed in a strainer), or 2 (14-ounce) cans halved artichoke hearts in water, drained
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and black pepper
1 pound pasta of your choice
6 ounces Parmesan, very finely grated
1 large lemon, zested (about ½ heaping teaspoon) and juiced (about 3 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons pine nuts
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
¼ cup torn basil leaves, plus more for garnishing
Preparation
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Gently pat the artichoke hearts with a paper towel to remove excess moisture. Place the artichoke hearts in a mound in the center of the baking sheet. Add 2 tablespoons oil and 1 teaspoon salt, season with pepper and gently toss to combine. Scatter the artichoke hearts in an even layer and roast for 20 minutes. Flip the hearts and roast for an additional 10 minutes, until browned and a little crisp around the edges. In the last two minutes of cooking add a sheet pan with the pine nuts and toast until brown. Watch, they do burn easily.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes or according to package directions.
While the pasta cooks, in a serving dish large enough to accommodate the spaghetti, add the Parmesan, 1 teaspoon salt, ½ teaspoon pepper and the lemon zest; toss to combine. Add the lemon juice and the remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil; stir to combine. The mixture should resemble a thick paste.
Place the serving dish next to the pasta pot. Drizzle 2 tablespoons of pasta water over the Parmesan-lemon mixture; stir to thin out the mixture a little. Using tongs or spider, lift out some of the pasta (with its cooking water still clinging to it) and transfer to the Parmesan-lemon mixture; quickly stir the pasta in a circular motion around the dish to incorporate the sauce. Repeat until you have transferred and tossed all of the pasta Add the butter, basil and 1 tablespoon of the pasta water to the spaghetti, and keep tossing until you have a silky sauce clinging to it. Add more pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time, if needed.
To serve top with the roasted artichokes, pine nuts, a little more black pepper and torn basil.