This week we had something of a first here at TWM, a lecture format class entitled German Wines Without Fear that I did not teach but rather handed the reins over to my capable associate JP Donnelly-Davis. I enjoyed assisting from the sidelines and the ability to take detailed tasting notes in the moment, rather than working from memory the next day.
The purpose of this tasting is to show the majesty of dry German Riesling, through the lens of four elite properties from different regions. To do this we showed their “estate” wine, or entry level, and then compared it to one of their single vineyard Premier Cru (Erste Lage) or Grand Cru (Grosses Gewachs) bottlings. The final flight we actually showed both because, well, it’s Von Winning and in my opinion they are the greatest estate in Germany at the moment. Overall the tasting was a resounding success, showing how nuanced Riesling can show when factors such as soil and exposition are considered.
Many of the top wines sold out after the event but we will bring them all back for a while, so if something looks interesting stop in and grab a bottle. If you are not yet on the train of dry Riesling but love Sauvignon Blanc, unwooded Chardonnay or other dry European whites you owe it to yourself to experiment.
1st Flight: Mosel
A Napoleon-era estate, with most vines at least 50+ years old and some pre-phylloxera. They only produce dry wines. Farm organically with spontaneous fermentation in mixed vessels.
Carl Loewen Riesling Alte Reben 2021
70+ year old vines, fermentation and aging in stainless steel; green apple, celery seed, kumquat, white cardamom; dry with a lot of austerity, leans more into grapefruit peel with baby talc texture, short finish with good potential. 2024-2028
Carl Loewen Riesling Erste Lage Detzemer Maximin Klosterlay 2022
70+ year old vines, aged in very old barrels, some sites within this vineyard are Grosses Gewachs; pink grapefruit, tangerine, citronella, baked pastry with cream cheese; moderately powerful with great focus, fleshes out a bit mid-palate but the acidity refocuses the finish. 2025-2035.
2nd Flight: Nahe
Father and son team, all hand worked, farm parcels in six villages, farm organic and they only grow an indigenous clone of Riesling unique to the Nahe. Ferment in large Stuckfass barrels (1200L German oak) and stainless steel.
Dönnhoff Riesling Trocken Nahe 2023
Produced from 2 vineyards 40+ year old vines, volcanic and slate; Gala apple, yellow nectarine, lemon curd, coriander, grey salt; shows an almost sweet impression of fruit but the acidity completely swallows it, gorgeous length and texture, very persistent. 2024-2027. (My pick for Wine of the Night for the entry level examples.)
Dönnhoff Riesling Erste Lage Roxheimer Höllenpfad 2021
Premier Cru, very steep, old vines on sandstone soils, Candied lemon peel, dried apricot, Fuji apple, nutmeg, white truffle; moderate weight but very intense, less giving than the estate wine above, will need to evolve but amazing potential. 2027-2035.
3rd Flight: Rheingau
Estate founded in 1641, substantial holdings across the central Rheingau that produces dry and sweet examples. Organic farming.
Spreitzer Riesling 101 2021
Made from 3 different sites; slate, quartzite and volcanic. Fresh quince, white nectarine, tangerine, dried straw; plump and generous for a moment, acidity quickly frames the fruit but leaves a little texture into the finish. 2024-2028.
Spreitzer Riesling Grosses Gewächs Rosengarten 2019
Grand Cru site, a mix of the same soil as Chablis with a pink tint; cooked quince, candied ginger, yellow peach, lanolin; quite powerful and intense, beginning to show evolution but still needs time, persistent power into the finish. 2025-2035.
4th Flight: Pfalz
Von Winning Riesling Deidescheimer Trocken 2021
Limestone soils across Deidesheim, all stainless steel fermentation and aging. Lime and lemon zests, white nectarine, papaya; lovely initial fruit with a lightning bolt of acidity that keeps this crackling on the palate, with surprising length and texture. Drink 2024-2029.
Von Winning Riesling Erste Lage Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten 2021
Fermented in neutral French oak barriques; dried apricot, pineapple, dried yellow plum, honeysuckle; initially fairly lavish but quickly finds a lot of acidity, barely contains the richness and finishes with a bit austerity. Drink 2026-2040.
Von Winning Riesling Grosses Gewächs Grainhubel 2021
Grand Cru vineyard, limestone and fossilized coral, fermented and aged in small barriques, 24 months on the lees; honeyed apricots, orange marmalade, dried pineapple, marzipan, linden flowers; lavish and round, almost shows a little creme brûlée like texture with firm acidity and persistent length. Stunning now, could age for decades. 2024-2044. (No surprise, for me this is the wine of the night.)
A Recap of German Wines Without Fear
September 6, 2024
